>> THIS PROGRAM IS SPONSORED IN PART BY A GRANT FROM THE ARKANSAS HUMANITIES COUNCIL AND THE DEPARTMENT OF ARKANSAS HERITAGE; BY OUACHITA BAPTIST UNIVERSITY-- A COMMUNITY OF SCHOLARSHIP, FAITH, AND HONOR; BY THE UNIVERSITY OF ARKANSAS, A STUDENT-CENTERED RESEARCH UNIVERSITY SERVING ARKANSAS AND THE WORLD; AND BY VIEWERS LIKE YOU.

( Melancholy music ) >> Charles Bolton, Historian: EVERYTHING WEST OF THE MISSISSIPPI WAS REALLY UNKNOWN, NOT ONLY TO JEFFERSON BUT ESSENTIALLY TO EVERYBODY.

>> Narrator: AS SOON AS THOMAS JEFFERSON APPROVED THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE LAND DEAL, HE SENT MERIWETHER LEWIS AND WILLIAM CLARK TO EXPLORE WHAT HE HAD ACQUIRED FROM THE FRENCH FOR ABOUT THREE CENTS AN ACRE.

LEWIS AND CLARK'S CORPS OF DISCOVERY, UP THE MISSOURI RIVER, IS AMONG THE MOST STUDIED ADVENTURES IN AMERICAN HISTORY.

AT THE SAME TIME IN THE AUTUMN OF 1804, ANOTHER TEAM OF EXPLORERS-- ALSO COMMISSIONED BY JEFFERSON-- WAS SENT TO INVESTIGATE THE LOWER PART OF THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE, TO REPORT BACK TO THE PRESIDENT AND CONGRESS ON THE RIVERS, PLANTS, ANIMALS, AND MINERALS SOUTH OF WHERE LEWIS AND CLARK WERE HEADED.

TWO MIDDLE-AGED SCOTTISH IMMIGRANTS, GEORGE HUNTER AND WILLIAM DUNBAR-- AND A CREW THAT INCLUDED A TEEN-AGED BOY AND A SLAVE-- ROWED, POLED, AND DRAGGED A BOAT UP THE OUACHITA RIVER.

THEIR JOURNEY TOOK THEM TO A HOT SPRINGS, A CURIOUS PLACE THAT YEARS LATER WOULD BECOME A NATIONAL PARK, FAMOUS FOR ITS HEALING WATERS AND ONCE RUMORED TO BE THE FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH.

THE VOYAGE WAS TO BE CALLED THE "GRAND EXPEDITION."

STARTING IN THE DEEP SOUTH, THEY WERE TO GO NORTHWEST INTO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS TO FIND THE SOURCE OF TWO GREAT RIVERS: THE RED AND THE ARKANSAS.

BUT A TRIBE OF FEARSOME INDIANS CAUSED THE PRESIDENT ANXIETY ABOUT THEIR SAFETY, AND THE TRIP WAS SCALED BACK.

SO WHILE AMERICA REMEMBERS AND ACCLAIMS LEWIS AND CLARK, THE NAMES OF DUNBAR AND HUNTER AND THEIR EXPEDITION ARE LONG FORGOTTEN.

>> Bolton, Ph.D., Historian: THE DUNBAR-HUNTER EXPEDITION WAS THE FIRST COMPLETE EXPEDITION THAT WOULD EXPLORE THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE.

>> Jeannie Whayne, Historian: IT'S ONE OF THE FIRST GLIMPSES, THE EARLIEST GLIMPSES, INTO THE LOUISIANA TERRITORY BY PEOPLE WHO DESPITE SOME OF THEIR SHORTCOMINGS WERE PRETTY KEEN OBSERVERS.

>> Joe Nix, Ph.D., Chemist: HOW THEY MANAGED IN THAT PERIOD OF TIME IS FASCINATING, AND IT WAS A TRUE ADVENTURE.

>> Trey Berry, Ph.D., Historian: A HANDFUL OF SCHOLARS KNOW ABOUT THE EXPEDITION BUT BEYOND THAT IT'S NOT THAT WELL KNOWN.

>> Charles Bolton, Historian: ESSENTIALLY, EVERYTHING THAT HAPPENED IN THE PAST IS HISTORY.

SO YOU HAVE TO MAKE CHOICES.

IN THAT SENSE IT'S PRETTY EASY TO UNDERSTAND WHY WE'VE MADE A CHOICE TO TALK MORE ABOUT LEWIS AND CLARK THAN WE HAVE ABOUT DUNBAR-HUNTER.

BUT AT THE SAME TIME, THAT SHOULDN'T OBSCURE THE IMPORTANCE OF DUNBAR AND HUNTER.

>> Narrator: WILLIAM DUNBAR WAS BORN IN A CASTLE TO AN ANCIENT ROYAL SCOTTISH FAMILY.

EDUCATED AT GLASGOW AND LONDON, HE STUDIED MATHEMATICS AND ASTRONOMY.

IN 1771 AT THE AGE OF 22, DUNBAR LEFT SCOTLAND FOR A NEW LIFE IN AMERICA WHERE HE ENTERED THE INDIAN TRADE.

HE SETTLED IN MISSISSIPPI, IMPORTED SLAVES FROM JAMAICA, AND OPERATED A SUCCESSFUL COTTON PLANTATION.

USING SLAVE LABOR, DUNBAR BUILT A STATELY HOME NINE MILES SOUTH OF NATCHEZ KNOWN AS "THE FOREST"; INTRODUCED THE SQUARE COTTON BALE FOR PACKING; AND INVENTED A WAY TO EXTRACT THE OIL FROM COTTON SEED, GREATLY INCREASING THE VALUE OF HIS CROP.

>> Ann Early, Archeologist: WILLIAM DUNBAR WAS IN MANY RESPECTS VERY TYPICAL OF A CERTAIN CLASS OF MEN IN THE LATE 18th AND EARLY 19th CENTURIES.

HE WAS SOUTHERN AS OPPOSED TO MANY OF HIS PARALLEL FRIENDS BACK EAST.

HE LIVED ON THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER.

HE HAD DEVELOPED AND MANAGED A PLANTATION.

HE WAS HEAVILY INVOLVED IN PLANTATION CULTURE.

BUT HE ALSO ASPIRED TO BE A GENTLEMAN SCHOLAR AND SCIENTIST IN THE VERY BEST TRADITION OF THE EARLY 19th CENTURY.

>> Narrator: THOMAS JEFFERSON WAS MADE AWARE OF DUNBAR'S PROMINENCE AS AN INVENTOR, ASTRONOMER, AND LAND SURVEYOR.

JEFFERSON AND DUNBAR BEGAN TO CORRESPOND ON INDIAN LANGUAGE, THE TEMPERATURE OF THE SOUTHWEST, AND THE ORIGIN OF THE RAINBOW.

IN MARCH OF 1804, JEFFERSON WROTE DUNBAR ABOUT AN EXPLORATION THAT WOULD RIVAL THE INSTRUCTIONS HE HAD GIVEN TO MERIWETHER LEWIS.

>> From Jefferson's diary: "THE PARTY WOULD CONSIST OF 10 OR 12 PICKED SOLDIERS, VOLUNTEERS WITH AN OFFICER UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF ONE OR TWO PERSONS QUALIFIED TO SURVEY AND CORRECT BY OBSERVATIONS OF LATITUDE AND LONGITUDE AND LATTER LUNAR, AND AS WELL INFORMED AS WE CAN GET THEM IN THE DEPARTMENTS OF BOTANY, NATURAL HISTORY, AND MINERALOGY.

A DOCTOR, GEORGE HUNTER OF PHILADELPHIA, IS APPOINTED TO GO AS COADJUTOR.

HIS FORTE IS CHEMISTRY.

THOMAS JEFFERSON, MONTICELLO."

>> Narrator: GEORGE HUNTER GREW UP A POOR, INDUSTRIOUS BOY IN EDINBURGH WHERE HE STUDIED TO BE A DRUGGIST.

IN 1774, AT THE AGE OF 19, HE LEFT SCOTLAND FOR PHILADELPHIA AND WENT TO WORK FOR TWO PHARMACISTS AT A TIME WHEN TALK OF REVOLUTION WAS REACHING A FEVERED PITCH.

IN THE WINTER OF 1776, HUNTER VOLUNTEERED FOR THE PHILADELPHIA MILITIA AND SAW ACTION AT THE BATTLES OF TRENTON AND PRINCETON.

AFTER THE WAR, HUNTER RETURNED TO PHILADELPHIA AND BECAME A PROSPEROUS DRUGGIST.

HE BUILT A REPUTATION AS A CHEMIST, ATTRACTING THE ATTENTION OF PRESIDENT JEFFERSON.

>> From Jefferson's diary: "IN THE PRACTICAL PART OF THAT BRANCH OF SCIENCE HE HAS PROBABLY NO EQUAL IN THE U.S., AND HE IS UNDERSTOOD TO BE QUALIFIED TO MAKE THE NECESSARY ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS."

>> Joe Nix, Chemist: I THINK HUNTER AND DUNBAR BOTH WERE SCIENTISTS.

HUNTER WAS A CHEMIST.

I'M A CHEMIST.

I CAN RELATE TO THAT AND CAN APPRECIATE HIM AS PROBABLY THE FIRST CHEMIST IN THIS PART OF THE COUNTRY.

BUT DUNBAR WAS ALSO A SCIENTIST.

HE WAS A SURVEYOR.

HE WAS A MAN OF TECHNICAL KNOWLEDGE.

I THINK HE WAS LESS OF A NATURAL HISTORIAN MAYBE THAN HUNTER.

WE SEEM TO SEE DUNBAR LOOKING AT THE LAND WITH AN EYE OF "WHAT CAN IT BE USED FOR?"

>> Narrator: THE "GRAND EXPEDITION" WAS TO BEGIN ON THE MISSISSIPPI AND GO ALL THE WAY TO THE HEADWATERS OF THE ARKANSAS RIVER, DEEP IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

IT WAS TO INCLUDE EXPLORATION OF THE RED RIVER INTO TEXAS.

CONGRESS APPROPRIATED $3,000, AND DUNBAR AND HUNTER WERE PROMISED $3 PER DAY SALARY.

THEY ALSO RECEIVED $800 FOR INSTRUMENTS AND EQUIPMENT, $600 FOR PRESENTS FOR THE INDIANS, AND ANOTHER $140 FOR ESSENTIALS TO BE PURCHASED ALONG THE WAY.

CHARGED WITH SECURING A BOAT FOR THE VOYAGE, HUNTER ENVISIONED A CRAFT THAT WOULD RESEMBLE A CHINESE JUNK; AND ON THE INSIDE COVER OF HIS DIARY, HE DREW A ROUGH SKETCH OF HOW HE IMAGINED IT WOULD LOOK.

IN MAY, HUNTER AND HIS 15-YEAR-OLD SON TRAVELED FROM PHILADELPHIA TO PITTSBURGH WHERE THEY HAD THE SHIP BUILT FOR THE PRICE OF $159.

>> From Dr. Hunter's diary: "MAY 25th, 1804.

THIS BOAT IS 50 FEET LONG ON DECK, 30 FEET STRAIGHT KEEL, FLAT BOTTOM, SOMEWHAT RESEMBLING A LONG SCOW IN USE TO FERRY OVER WAGONS.

SHE IS COVERED WITH LIGHT BOARDS SO AS TO GIVE GOOD ACCOMMODATION TO THE PASSENGERS AND FURNISHED WITH A STOUT MAST 36 FEET LONG IN THE CHINESE STYLE... HAS TWO LARGE SCULLS 50 FEET LONG EACH, FIXED IN THE CHINESE WAY, SIX SETTING POLES AND TWO SIDE OARS.

DR. GEORGE HUNTER."

>> Narrator: THE HUNTERS LEFT PITTSBURGH FOR NATCHEZ, WITH A CREW THAT INCLUDED AN INFANTRY LIEUTENANT, AN ARMY DOCTOR, A SPANISH FENCING MASTER, A SWISS SHOEMAKER, AND A GERMAN.

THREE OTHER HIRED HANDS BACKED OUT AT THE LAST MINUTE, FEARING THE SAFETY OF HUNTER'S ODD-LOOKING SHIP.

BY THE TIME THE PARTY REACHED NATCHEZ, THEY LEARNED THAT JEFFERSON HAD POSTPONED THEIR MISSION UNTIL THE FOLLOWING SPRING.

( Drums beating ) ( Indians chanting ) >> Narrator: THE PRESIDENT HAD RECEIVED ALARMING REPORTS ABOUT THE OSAGE INDIANS WHO HUNTED AROUND THE ARKANSAS RIVER IN WHAT IS NOW WESTERN ARKANSAS AND EASTERN OKLAHOMA.

FEARING THE MEN MIGHT BE SLAUGHTERED, JEFFERSON TOLD DUNBAR TO DELAY THE GRAND EXPEDITION.

>> From Jefferson's diary: IT SEEMS THERE IS A SCHISM IN THEIR NATION, ABOUT 400 WARRIORS OF IT AND THEIR FAMILIES UNDER THE DIRECTION OF A CHIEF CALLED THE GREAT TRACK.

THESE WILL UNDOUBTEDLY OPPOSE THE PASSAGE OF OUR PARTY AND PERHAPS DO WORSE.

THEREFORE, WE CONCLUDE TO SUSPEND THIS EXPEDITION TO THE SPRING."

>> Charles Bolton, Historian: THE OSAGE HAD A REPUTATION FOR FEROCITY WHICH WAS TO SOME DEGREE DESERVED.

>> Jeannie Whayne, Historian: WELL, THEY'D KILL YOU.

I MEAN, THEY WOULD TRY TO DRIVE YOU OUT.

THEY WOULD DO EVERYTHING IN THE REALM OF POSSIBILITY TO GET RID OF YOU.

THEY WERE FIERCE WARRIORS; THERE'S NO QUESTION ABOUT IT.

THE OSAGE WERE ALL ABOUT PROTECTING THEIR TERRITORY.

( Indians beating drums and chanting ) >> Trey Berry, Ph.D., Historian: IN JUNE OF 1804, DUNBAR WROTE JEFFERSON WITH AN IDEA.

HIS IDEA WAS TO DO A TRIAL RUN, AND THE TRIAL RUN HE DECIDED WOULD BE UP A SMALL TRIBUTARY OF THE RED RIVER CALLED THE OUACHITA.

>> Reading letter from Dunbar: "THE 'WASHITA' RIVER IS SUPPOSED TO OFFER MANY CURIOUS OBJECTS.

IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE 200 MILES FROM THE RED RIVER.

HERE'S A CURIOSITY CALLED THE BOILING SPRING OR FOUNTAIN.

THE COUNTRY IS MOUNTAINOUS AND COVERED WITH CRYSTALLIZATIONS OF VARIOUS KINDS WITH INDICATIONS OF METALS AND MINERAL PRODUCTION HITHERTO NOT MUCH EXPLORED.

HERE A NATURAL CAULDRON BOILS; A SPRING ISSUES OUT.

THIS BATH HAS THE REPUTATION FOR SUPPOSED CURES PERFORMED ON SOME INVALIDS WHO HAVE BATHED IN ITS WATER.

WILLIAM DUNBAR, THE FOREST."

>> Ann Early, Archeologist: DUNBAR ESPECIALLY WAS REALLY PSYCHED TO GIVE THE VERY BEST DESCRIPTION OF THE LANDSCAPE HE COULD.

THIS WAS REALLY IMPORTANT TO FILL JEFFERSON'S MIND WITH WHAT THE POTENTIAL WAS OF THIS AREA, WHAT THE LANDSCAPE WAS LIKE.

AND IT ALSO EPITOMIZED THE BEST SCIENCE OF THE GENTLEMAN NATURAL HISTORIAN.

>> Narrator: JEFFERSON AGREED TO DUNBAR'S REQUEST FOR A SHORTER TRIP, FAR SOUTH OF THE OSAGE HUNTING GROUNDS.

ON OCTOBER 16, 1804, AFTER A FOUR-MONTH DELAY, THE EXPEDITION FINALLY LEFT NATCHEZ.

SEVENTEEN MEN, INCLUDING ONE OF DUNBAR'S SLAVES, SHOVED OFF ON AN UNCHARTED VOYAGE, HEADED FOR THE HOT SPRINGS.

>> From Dr. Hunter's diary: "THE WIND BEING FAVORABLE, SET SAIL AND WENT ON BUT A SHORT DISTANCE WHEN IT CAME AHEAD, AND WE TOOK TO OUR OARS."

>> Trey Berry: THIS IS REALLY A SCIENTIFIC EXPEDITION.

IT'S JUST NOT TO SEE IF THEY CAN MAKE IT.

IT'S TO SEE WHAT'S THERE AND TO REPORT BACK PRECISELY WHAT THE UNITED STATES HAS JUST PURCHASED FROM FRANCE.

>> From Dr. Hunter's diary: "A LITTLE BEFORE SUNSET, ENCAMPED ON AN ISLAND ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE MISSISSIPPI IN ORDER TO GIVE THE MEN TIME TO CUT WOOD FOR FIRES AND TO PITCH THEIR TENTS BEFORE DARK.

WE ARE NOW 24 MILES BELOW NATCHEZ."

>> Narrator: AFTER BREAKING CAMP, THE VOYAGERS CONTINUED DOWN THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER, TAKING A RIGHT TURN ON TO THE BLACK RIVER.

AT THE CONFLUENCE OF THE RED AND OUACHITA RIVERS, THEY TOOK THE NORTHERN ROUTE UP THE OUACHITA WHERE THE RIVER WAS WIDE AND SWAMPLIKE.

ON THE BANKS, THE VEGETATION WAS A FRESH GREEN BUT THE TREES WERE SMALL.

THEY SAW FLOCKS OF WILD GEESE, A FEW DUCKS, AND LARGE ALLIGATORS.

>> Tim Knight, Ph.D., Biologist: MY IMPRESSIONS FROM READING THEIR JOURNALS ARE THAT THE FURTHER THEY CAME UPSTREAM, THE LESS THEY SAW AS FAR AS NUMBERS OF PEOPLE AND THE MORE REMOTE IT GOT.

PROBABLY IT WAS JUST THE REVERSE FOR WILDLIFE: THE FARTHER THEY CAME UPSTREAM, THE FEWER PEOPLE THEY SAW BUT THE MORE DIVERSITY IN WILDLIFE THEY SAW.

>> From Dr. Hunter's diary: "OCTOBER 19th.

OBSERVED A CANOE HAULED ASHORE AND A BLACK MAN WHO LEFT IT AT OUR APPROACH.

THE CANOE WAS EMPTY, AND WE SUSPECTED THAT THE PERSON WE HAD JUST SEEN WAS A RUN-AWAY SLAVE.

OUR SOLDIERS CAUGHT HIM.

HE PROVED TO BE A STOUT BLACK MAN, HAD NOTHING BUT HIS SHIRT AND TROUSERS ON, CALLED HIMSELF HARRY, BUT GAVE NO SATISFACTORY ACCOUNT OF HIMSELF.

WE DETAINED HIM AND HE APPEARED WILLING TO GO WITH US FOR HE WAS HALF FAMISHED."

>> Narrator: HARRY STAYED WITH THE CREW FOR A FEW DAYS UNTIL THE PARTY WAS GREETED BY A PLANTER WHO CLAIMED TO BE THE BLACK MAN'S OWNER.

>> From Dr. Hunter's diary: "THE MASTER OF THE RUN-AWAY NEGRO HAILED US FROM THE BANK COMING UP, AND WE WERE RELIEVED FROM THE CHARGE OF HIM TO HIS MASTER'S GREAT SATISFACTION."

>> Jeannie Whayne: THEY WEREN'T ALWAYS TRYING TO RUN AWAY TO FREEDOM.

THEY WERE SIMPLY GETTING A LITTLE BREATHING ROOM.

WHAT WOULD HAPPEN... AND PLANTERS SORT OF UNDERSTOOD THIS.

THE LITERATURE ON SLAVERY NOW SUGGESTS THAT THERE WERE TWO KINDS OF RUNNING AWAY.

THERE WERE THOSE WHO RAN AWAY TO FREEDOM.

THEY TENDED TO BE YOUNG, SINGLE MALES WHO HAD NO FAMILY THEY WERE LEAVING BEHIND, READY TO RISK EVERYTHING.

AND THEN THERE WERE OTHERS WHO RAN AWAY FOR A FEW DAYS OR A WEEK AND THEN THEY'D COME BACK AND THEY WOULD BE PUNISHED FOR RUNNING AWAY, BUT IT WAS SORT OF LIKE BLOWING OFF STEAM.

IT INHIBITED BUILDING UP ENOUGH STEAM AND PRESSURE FOR SOMETHING LIKE A FULL-BLOWN REVOLUTION.

>> Narrator: AS THE JOURNEY CONTINUED, THE RIVER BECAME SHALLOW AND THE BOAT BEGAN TO STICK ON THE MUDDY BOTTOM.

THE CREW HAD TO DRAG IT THROUGH THE CHANNEL BY WADING IN THE WATER.

THEY WERE TIRED AND ANGRY.

>> Trey Berry: DUNBAR'S WORST IMAGINATIONS COME TRUE.

THE BOAT IS NOT CONDUCIVE FOR GOING UP THE RIVER.

THEY ARE STUCK ON SUBMERGED LOGS.

THEY HAVE TO DRAG THE BOAT OVER THOSE LOGS.

THEY HAVE TO DRAG THEIR BOAT OVER GRAVEL BARS.

( Men grunting and groaning ) THE WATER IS COLD AND THESE SOLDIERS ARE NOT HAPPY.

>> From Dr. Hunter's diary: "NOVEMBER 4th, SUNDAY.

THE MEN OFTEN GRUMBLING AND SOME OF THEM UTTERING EXECRATIONS AGAINST ME IN PARTICULAR FOR PUSHING THEM ON, IN WHICH THEY WERE BY NO MEANS CHECKED BY THE SERGEANT WHO DID NOT KEEP VERY STRICT DISCIPLINE ON BOARD.

IN STEERING, HE RAN UNDER A TREE AND CARRIED AWAY THE MAST WHICH COST ME SO MUCH PAINS TO PROCURE IN PITTSBURGH.

MADE ONLY FOUR MILES THIS DAY."

>> Jeannie Whayne: DUNBAR AND HUNTER HAD NOTHING BUT BAD THINGS TO SAY ABOUT THE SOLDIERS.

THEY COMPLAINED ABOUT HOW THEY DIDN'T FOLLOW ORDERS AND HOW LAZY THEY WERE.

THEY'RE VERY ERUDITE AND THEY'RE VERY FORMAL AND THEY'RE VERY LITERATE AND EDUCATED.

THEY'RE KIND OF DANDIES.

THEY MUST HAVE LOOKED PRETTY FOOLISH TO THESE SOLDIERS WHO WERE HAVING TO DO ALL THIS HARD WORK.

AND IT WAS VERY HARD WORK, AND IT WAS VERY BAD, PRIMITIVE CONDITIONS.

>> Narrator: THE EXPEDITION REACHED THE LAST TRADING POST ON THE OUACHITA: FORT MIRO, THE SITE OF PRESENT-DAY MONROE, LOUISIANA.

THE FORT WAS BUILT TO GIVE PROTECTION TO THE CANADIAN-FRENCH SETTLERS AGAINST INDIAN ATTACK.

TO DUNBAR AND HUNTER, THE SETTLERS APPEARED LAZY, LIVING HAND TO MOUTH, SUPPLYING THEIR NEEDS BY HUNTING BEAR, BUFFALO, AND WATER FOWL, WITH NO INTEREST IN FARMING.

>> Tim Knight: FROM WHAT THE DUNBAR AND HUNTER JOURNALS SAY, MOST OF THOSE PEOPLE WERE PROBABLY FRENCH, SOME SPANISH.

THEY MAY HAVE BEEN CRIMINALS, I MEAN, LITERALLY CRIMINALS THAT GOT BOOTED OUT OF NEW ORLEANS AND SAID, "YOU HAVE TO LEAVE" SO THIS IS WHERE THEY ENDED UP.

>> Ann Early: THEY WERE MOSTLY PEOPLE WHO MADE THEIR LIVING IN SOME FASHION FROM THE SKIN TRADE AND FROM EXTRACTING RAW MATERIALS FROM THE WILDERNESS WITH AS LITTLE OVERSIGHT AND CONTROL BY ANY AUTHORITY WHATSOEVER AS POSSIBLE.

>> Narrator: AT FORT MIRO, THEY HIRED AN EXPERIENCED PILOT TO SERVE AS A GUIDE, A MAN NAMED BLAZIER WHO HAD TRAVELED THE OUACHITA MANY TIMES.

BY NOW DUNBAR WAS CONVINCED HUNTER'S CHINESE SHIP WOULD NOT MAKE IT MUCH FURTHER UP THE STREAM.

>> From Dunbar's diary: "NOVEMBER 10th.

CONTINUED OUR SEARCH FOR PROPER VESSELS.

HEARD OF A FLAT BOTTOM BARGE.

UPON EXAMINATION FOUND IT VERY PROPER FOR OUR PURPOSE.

SHE IS UPWARDS OF 50 FEET LONG AND 8 1/2 FEET AT THE WIDEST, BUILT FLAT AND WELL FORMED FOR RUNNING.

I AM NOW OF OPINION THAT THIS IS THE BEST FORM OF BOAT FOR PENETRATING UP SHALLOW RIVERS.

WE ARE TO GIVE ONE AND ONE QUARTER DOLLAR PER DAY FOR THE USE OF HER UNTIL WE RETURN."

>> Trey Berry: THIS BOAT WAS MUCH MORE LIKE A KEEL BOAT.

THE DRAFT WAS MUCH MORE SHALLOW IN THE WATER.

THE MEN STILL HAD TO POLE, AND THEY STILL HAD TO DRAG IT IN SOME PLACES ESPECIALLY AS THEY GET FURTHER UP THE RIVER AND IT BECOMES MORE SHALLOW.

BUT IT IS VERY EVIDENT THAT THAT CHINESE BOAT WOULD NOT HAVE MADE IT.

>> Narrator: AFTER LEAVING FORT MIRO, THE MEN FLOATED THEIR NEW BOAT TO THE PLANTATION OF BARON BASTROP, A SETTLEMENT OF ABOUT 500 PERSONS OF ALL AGES AND SEXES.

THE RIVER WAS BROADER NOW, 150 YARDS WIDE.

A MOSS CALLED SPANISH BEARD COULD BE SEEN HANGING FROM THE TREES.

>> From Dr. Hunter's diary: "NOVEMBER 13th.

AT BREAKFAST TIME, STOPPED AT A BARK CABIN INHABITED BY A SPANIARD.

IT WAS ONE STORY HIGH, HAD AN EARTHEN FLOOR, THE CHIMNEY OF MUD MIXED WITH GRASS, ONE BED FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY WHICH CONSISTED OF THE MAN AND HIS WIFE, FOUR CHILDREN: THE ELDEST A GIRL OF 16; THE YOUNGEST AT THE BREAST.

THOUGH THE LAND WAS GOOD, THERE WAS NO APPEARANCE OF VEGETABLES FOR THE USE OF MAN OR BEAST.

THUS ARE INDOLENCE AND POVERTY ALLIED."

>> Tim Knight: BY OUR STANDARDS TODAY THOSE PEOPLE WERE PROBABLY PRETTY ROUGH AROUND THE EDGES.

THEY HAD TO GO DAY TO DAY, MEAL TO MEAL.

FROM WHAT I'VE READ, THEY DIDN'T FARM MUCH.

IF THEY HAD LIVESTOCK, THAT WAS A HIT-OR-MISS THING BECAUSE THEY DIDN'T REALLY HAVE A WAY TO PEN THEM UP AND THEY WOULD PROBABLY FALL PREY TO BEARS AND PANTHERS AND WOLVES AND ALL SORTS OF ANIMALS.

SO THEIR LIVING WAS PROBABLY HIT OR MISS AND DAY TO DAY.

>> From Dunbar's diary: "SATURDAY, 17th.

THERMOMETER IN AIR, 40 DEGREES.

FOG ON THE RIVER.

SAW A GREAT QUANTITY OF THE LONG-LEAF PINE WHICH IS FREQUENTLY FOUND IN RICH SOIL.

IN THE FORENOON, SAW THE FIRST SWAN WHICH WAS SHOT BY ONE OF OUR HUNTERS.

THE DEER IS NOW FAT AND THEIR SKINS IN PERFECTION.

THE BEAR ALSO IS NOW FATTER THAN AT ANY OTHER SEASON, HAVING FED FOR SOME TIME ON THE ABUNDANT FRUITS PRODUCED BY OUR FORESTS IN THE AUTUMN.

THE HUNTERS COUNT MUCH OF THEIR PROFITS FROM THE OIL DRAWN FROM THE BEAR'S FAT."

>> Tim Knight: THEY TALK ABOUT MEETING A GROUP OF HUNTERS THAT HAD BEEN OUT FOR SEVERAL WEEKS THAT HAD KILLED 40 BEARS WHICH WOULD BE UNHEARD OF IN OUR MINDS.

BUT THAT WAS PROBABLY FAIRLY ROUTINE FOR HUNTERS.

>> From Dr. Hunter's diary: "NOVEMBER 18th.

THERMOMETER IN AIR, 32 DEGREES.

CAME UP TO A CLEARING CALLED CACHE la TULIPE, TULIP'S HIDING PLACE, THE NAME OF A FRENCH HUNTER WHO CONCEALED HIS PROPERTY IN THIS PLACE.

IT CONTINUES TO BE A PRACTICE OF BOTH WHITE AND RED HUNTERS TO DEPOSIT THEIR SKINS SUSPENDED TO POLES UPON TWO FORKED POSTS IN SIGHT OF THE RIVER, UNTIL THEIR RETURN FROM HUNTING.

THESE DEPOSITS ARE CONSIDERED AS SACRED, AND FEW EXAMPLES EXIST OF THEIR BEING PLUNDERED."

>> Narrator: THE FARTHER NORTH THEY TRAVELED, THE HIGHER THE BANKS APPEARED.

THE BLUFFS WERE LINED WITH BIRCH, SYCAMORE, BEECH AND HICKORY TREES.

>> From Dr. Hunter's diary: "NOVEMBER 20th.

CAME UP WITH A CANOE HAVING A CONSUMPTIVE PERSON ON BOARD ON HIS WAY TO THE HOT SPRINGS FOR THE RECOVERY OF HIS HEALTH.

THE CANOE BELONGED TO A MR. CAMBEL, A HOUSE PAINTER BY TRADE AND COTTON ENGINE MAKER.

HE ACCOMPANIED US THE REST OF THIS DAY."

>> Narrator: DEEP WATER MADE THE JOURNEY EASIER THAN BEFORE, BUT SUDDENLY THE EXPEDITION APPEARED IN JEOPARDY.

>> Joe Nix: I BELIEVE DR. HUNTER WAS LOADING HIS PISTOL.

IT WAS A RAM-ROD TYPE PISTOL.

BUT HE WAS HOLDING THE PISTOL BETWEEN HIS LEGS.

>> From Dr. Hunter's diary: "WHILST RAMMING DOWN THE BALL, THE MOTION OF THE BOAT CAUSED THE PISTOL TO SLIP AND INSTANTLY DISCHARGED ITSELF IN MY FACE.

THE BALL AND CONTENTS WENT THROUGH BETWEEN MY RIGHT THUMB AND TWO PRINCIPAL FINGERS WHICH WERE THEREBY MUCH LACERATED AND TORN.

THE CHARGE PASSING ALONG MY FACE BURNT OFF MY EYEBROWS AND LASHES.

SCORCHING THE SKIN, WENT THROUGH MY HAT WITHIN AN INCH OF MY RIGHT TEMPLE, GIVING ME A DREADFUL BLOW.

THIS ACCIDENT DEPRIVED ME OF THE USE OF MY RIGHT HAND FOR ABOUT TWO WEEKS, AND MY EYES WERE SO INFLAMED THAT IT WAS AS LONG BEFORE I COULD EITHER SEE TO WRITE OR TO TAKE AN OBSERVATION."

>> Joe Nix: IT IS AMAZING THAT HE MADE IT THROUGH THAT, I THINK, WITHOUT AN INFECTION OR SOMETHING THAT REALLY COULD HAVE BEEN LIFE THREATENING.

>> Narrator: BY THE END OF NOVEMBER, THE TEMPERATURE DURING THE DAY WAS REACHING AN UNSEASONABLE 70 DEGREES.

THEY WERE NOW ONLY ABOUT 40 MILES FROM THE HOT SPRINGS.

>> From Dr. Hunter's diary: "THE WATER FOR THESE SIX DAYS PAST HAS BECOME MORE CLEAR SO THAT THE ROCKS AND GRAVEL ON THE BOTTOM IS SEEN MORE DISTINCTLY THAN BEFORE.

HERE WE MET WITH A DELAWARE INDIAN PAINTED WITH VERMILION ROUND THE EYES."

>> Joe Nix: NOW HERE IS HUNTER AND DUNBAR'S BOAT.

IT'S NINE FEET WIDE AND 49 FEET LONG AND THE DELAWARE INDIAN LOOKS AT THE BOAT AND IN HUNTER'S JOURNAL IN A FOOTNOTE IT RECORDS THAT THE INDIAN SAID, "OH, CANOE DAMNED BIG."

>> From Dunbar's diary: "HERE WE FOUND AN OLD DUTCH HUNTER WITH HIS PARTY CONSISTING IN ALL OF FIVE PERSONS.

THIS MAN HAS RESIDED 40 YEARS ON THE OUACHITA AND BEFORE THAT PERIOD HAS BEEN UP THE 'ARCANSA' RIVER.

THIS MAN CONFIRMS THE FREQUENT REPORTS GIVEN OF SILVER BEING ABUNDANT UP THIS RIVER."

>> Narrator: THE DUTCHMAN, WHOSE NAME WAS PALTZ, TOOK HUNTER TO A SALINE BAYOU WHERE THE DOCTOR CONDUCTED EXPERIMENTS ON THE SOIL.

HERE THEY DISCOVERED INDIAN EARTHEN POTS LIKELY USED IN MAKING SALT.

>> Ann Early: WE KNOW THIS LOCATION VERY WELL.

WE'VE DONE A NUMBER OF PROJECTS IN THERE, AND WHAT WE SEE IS THAT FOR 500 YEARS MANY PEOPLE LIVED ALONG THIS BAYOU, AND THEY BURNED WOOD FURIOUSLY TO EXTRACT SALT FROM THE BRINY WATERS.

SALT WAS INCREDIBLY VALUABLE.

ANY SALT LOCATION THAT COULD BE USED AS A PRODUCTION SOURCE WAS OF GREAT POTENTIAL ECONOMIC AND POLITICAL VALUE.

SO THAT WAS REALLY IMPORTANT DATA TO PASS ON.

>> From Dunbar's diary: "WEDNESDAY, THE 28th.

THE TRIBE OF OSAGES LIVE HIGHER UP THAN THIS POSITION, BUT THE HUNTERS RARELY GO SO HIGH, BEING AFRAID OF THOSE SAVAGES WHO ARE AT WAR WITH THE WORLD AND DESTROY ALL STRANGERS THEY CAN MEET WITH.

>> Trey Berry: HE'S CONTINUALLY OBSESSED WITH THE OSAGE.

AFTER ALL, THEY ARE THE REASON WHY HE'S GOING UP THE OUACHITA ANYWAY INSTEAD OF THE GRAND EXPEDITION, AND HE'S ALWAYS ON THE LOOKOUT: ARE THE OSAGE AROUND THE NEXT CORNER?

>> Narrator: AS THE WEATHER TURNED COLD, THE LANDSCAPE BECAME A WINTER GRAY.

THE BANKS WERE COVERED BY CANE AND THICK UNDERBRUSH, INTERWOVEN WITH THORNS AND BRIARS.

PERSIMMONS AND SMALL BLACK GRAPES WERE PLENTIFUL.

WHEN THE EXPLORERS PASSED THE CONFLUENCE OF THE CADDO AND OUACHITA RIVERS, THEY CAME UPON AN UNUSUAL ROCK FORMATION THAT REMINDED DUNBAR OF HIS CASTLE HOME IN SCOTLAND.

>> From Dunbar's diary: "THIS PRESENTED SOME APPEARANCE AT A DISTANCE OF THE ANCIENT RUINED FORTIFICATIONS AND CASTLES SO FREQUENT IN EUROPE."

>> Joe Nix: THAT'S A BEAUTIFUL PLACE ON THE RIVER.

IT IS THE PLACE WE CALL ROCKPORT TODAY, OBVIOUSLY WHERE IT GOT ITS NAME.

A MAJOR CROSSING AT ONE TIME ON THE OUACHITA RIVER, IT'S NEAR MALVERN.

IT'S AN OUTCROPPING OF SANDSTONE THAT MAY BE APPROACHING A NOVACULITE, A VERY FINE-GRAINED MATERIAL WITH LICHEN AND MOSSES GROWING ON IT.

IT'S A BEAUTIFUL PLACE.

IT'S WHERE MY FATHER PROPOSED TO MY MOTHER STANDING ON THOSE ROCKS.

IT WAS A PLACE IN LATER YEARS THAT THE LOCAL PEOPLE WOULD SWIM AND HAVE FUN AT THE RIVER.

>> From Dunbar's diary: "A LITTLE AFTER 4:00 P.M. WE ARRIVED AT THE CHUTES.

WE FOUND THESE FALLS TO BE OCCASIONED BY A CHAIN OF ROCKS."

>> Narrator: LATE IN THE AFTERNOON THEY CAME TO A JAGGED WATERFALL.

THE CURRENT WAS SWIFT, AND THE BOAT WEDGED IN MIDSTREAM.

FOR HOURS, THE MEN TRIED TO POLE THE BOAT OFF THE ROCKS.

SOME OF THE SOLDIERS WADED INTO THE COLD, RUSHING WATER AND ATTEMPTED TO PULL IT FORWARD WITH ROPES.

WHEN THAT DIDN'T WORK, THEY BEGAN ROCKING THE BOAT FROM SIDE TO SIDE.

FINALLY WELL INTO THE NIGHT, THEY WERE ABLE TO DRAG THEIR VESSEL OVER THE CHUTES.

JUST NORTH OF THE WATERFALL, THE EXHAUSTED TRAVELERS MADE CAMP.

THE EXPLORERS WERE NOW CLOSE TO THEIR DESTINATION.

A LITTLE FURTHER UP RIVER, THE EXPEDITION CAMPED ALONG THE BANKS AND SENT A PARTY TO FIND THE HOT SPRINGS.

THEY RETURNED TWO DAYS LATER TELLING OF THE WONDERFUL THINGS THEY HAD SEEN.

>> Trey Berry: THESE GUYS GO AND THEY COME BACK THE NEXT DAY WITH THESE GRANDIOSE STORIES ABOUT, OH, THESE BEAUTIFUL FORMATIONS AND THE HOT SPRINGS AND HOW THE WATER OF THE HOT SPRINGS TASTED TO THEM LIKE SPICED WOOD TEA.

IT WAS JUST MIRACULOUS.

>> Narrator: WITH A COLD SNAP IN THE AIR, THE MEN SET OUT BY FOOT WITH THEIR SUPPLIES.

>> From Dr. Hunter's diary: "THE WATER IS CELEBRATED FOR ITS MEDICINAL QUALITIES PARTICULARLY IN REMOVING RHEUMATIC PAINS AND AFFLICTIONS."

>> Narrator: AT THE HOT SPRINGS, DUNBAR AND HUNTER BEGAN CONDUCTING SCIENTIFIC EXPERIMENTS.

>> From Dr. Hunter's diary: "THEREFORE, SET ABOUT EXAMINING THE HOT WATER BY SUCH CHEMICAL TESTS AS WE POSSESSED, DISCOVERED NOTHING PARTICULAR TO THE SMELL OR TASTE DIFFERENT FROM OTHER HOT WATER EXCEPT IN CAUSING A SLIGHT BELCH.

THE WATER IS SO HOT AS TO MAKE IT IMPOSSIBLE FOR A PERSON TO HOLD HIS HAND HALF A MINUTE IN IT, CAUSING A CONSIDERABLE VAPOR ROUND EACH.

ONE THERMOMETER INDICATED 150 DEGREES."

>> Joe Nix: THEY MADE OBSERVATIONS OF THE ROCKS IN THE AREA.

THEY SPENT A LOT OF TIME LOOKING AT THE SPRINGS THEMSELVES AND DESCRIBED NOT ONLY THE ROCK DEPOSITS THAT WERE THERE AT THE SPRING BUT THE KIND OF COATINGS THAT WERE ON THE ROCK THAT HAD BEEN DEPOSITED BY THE SPRING.

>> From Dr. Hunter's diary: "THIS DAY, WALKED UP THE HILL OR MOUNTAIN FROM WHENCE THE HOT WATER SPEWS.

THIS IMMENSE CRUST IS LIMESTONE, RESEMBLING IN APPEARANCE THE POROUS STONE FROM THE BAHAMA ISLANDS AND BERMUDAS OF WHICH THE FILTERING STONES ARE MADE.

OBSERVED SOME OF THE SPRINGS EMITTING GAS OR AIR BUBBLES."

>> Narrator: HUNTER AND DUNBAR SPENT THEIR DAYS INVESTIGATING THE SPRINGS.

THEY MADE ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS, STUDIED THE PLANT LIFE, AND EXAMINED THE ROCK FORMATIONS.

>> From Dunbar's diary: "ALL THE SPRINGS DEPOSIT RED CALX OF IRON IN THEIR PASSAGE TO THE CREEK.

THERE IS TO BE SURE SPARKLING CRYSTALS MINGLED WITH THE LIME IN A STATE OF DECOMPOSITION.

BUT HAVING OBSERVED BY THE AID OF THE MICROSCOPE THAT THE WHOLE OF THE CALCAREOUS ROCK EXHIBITS NOTHING BUT A MASS OF CONGREGATED SPARRY MATTER, IT THEREFORE DOES NOT APPEAR TO ME DECIDED WHETHER THE SPARKLING PARTICLES ARE REALLY SILICEOUS CRYSTALS OR ONLY CALCAREOUS SPAR."

>> From Dr. Hunter's diary: "HOW IS THIS QUANTITY OF WATER HEATED?

FROM WHENCE COMES THIS LARGE QUANTITY OF LIME WHICH IT HAS DEPOSITED ON THE SIDE OF THE MOUNTAIN WHEN NO LIME IS TO BE SEEN ELSEWHERE ALL OVER THE COUNTRY?

TO RESOLVE THESE QUESTIONS MAY PERHAPS REQUIRE A KNOWLEDGE OF MORE FACTS THAN WE ARE AT PRESENT ACQUAINTED WITH."

>> Joe Nix: AFTER A LONG DISCOURSE ABOUT, YOU KNOW, IT MAY BE THAT THIS IS BEING FIRED BY CERTAIN CHEMICAL REACTIONS OR SOMETHING, HE SAYS, "BUT, YOU KNOW, I REALLY NEED TO THINK ABOUT THIS AND HAVE A LITTLE MORE KNOWLEDGE ABOUT THIS KIND OF THING."

BASICALLY HE WAS SAYING, "I DON'T KNOW."

>> From Dunbar's diary: "THE DOCTOR HAS BEEN UNABLE TO DISCOVER ANYTHING IN THE WATER OF THE HOT SPRINGS EXCEPT SOME WEAK ACID WHICH IS PROBABLY CARBONIC.

THE WATER HAS BEEN FROM THIS CAUSE A LITTLE HARD AND THEREFORE NOT SO PROPER FOR WASHING."

>> Joe Nix: THE THING THAT WAS SIGNIFICANT ABOUT THEIR VISIT TO HOT SPRINGS AND THE AREA WAS THEIR SCIENTIFIC VIEW.

NO, THERE MAY NOT HAVE BEEN ANYTHING EARTH SHATTERING... NO, THEY DIDN'T FIND THE GOLD MINE; THEY DIDN'T FIND THE FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH.

BUT THEY DID TELL US WHAT WAS HERE AS FAR AS VEGETATION, SOIL, ROCK, WATER, THE ANIMALS OF THE AREA.

THEY GAVE US A NATURAL HISTORY TYPE PICTURE OF THE AREA AND RECORDED IT.

>> Narrator: SHORTLY BEFORE CHRISTMAS, THE ENCAMPMENT WAS HIT BY AN ICE STORM CAUSING A HALT IN THEIR EXPERIMENTS.

HUNTER BECAME ILL WITH WHAT HE CALLED IN HIS JOURNAL A PAINFUL ATTACK OF GRAVEL AND FOR DAYS WAS BEDRIDDEN.

>> Ann Early: THERE WAS SNOW AND SLEET AND ICE.

TRYING TO COLLECT WATER SAMPLES AND SAMPLES OF FLORA AND FAUNA IN THE HOT WATERS AND HIKE AROUND THE HILLS AROUND HOT SPRINGS WITHOUT SLIPPING AND FALLING ON THE ICE MADE IT JUST A VERY MISERABLE EXPERIENCE FOR A COUPLE OF WEEKS.

( Men singing: ) "LET US DRINK-- OUI, OUI, OUI "LET US DRINK-- NO, NO, NO.

"LET US DRINK BECAUSE THE WINE IS GOOD."

>> From Dunbar's diary: "DECEMBER 25th, 1804.

THIS BEING CHRISTMAS, WE WERE OBLIGED TO INDULGE THE MEN WITH A HOLY DAY FOR WHICH PURPOSE THEY HAD HORDED UP THEIR RATION WHISKEY TO BE EXPENDED ON THIS DAY."

( Men continue singing: ) "LET US DRINK-- OUI, OUI, OUI..." >> From Dunbar's diary: "A GREAT DEAL OF FROLIC WAS THE CONSEQUENCE BUT PERFECTLY INNOCENT.

( Men laughing ) >> From Dr. Hunter's diary: "THEY MADE THEMSELVES VERY MERRY, SERENADING US FROM TIME TO TIME WITH A VOLLEY FROM THEIR RIFLES, WISHING US A HAPPY CHRISTMAS AND ALL THE COMPLIMENTS OF THE SEASON."

( Rifle firing ) ( Men whooping and hollering ) >> Narrator: AFTER MORE THAN THREE WEEKS AT THE HOT SPRINGS, THE MEN BROKE CAMP AND HEADED BACK TO THEIR BOAT ON THE RIVER.

BUT WHEN THEY ARRIVED, THE WATER WAS TOO SHALLOW FOR SAFE PASSAGE AND THEY CAMPED ON THE SHORE HOPING FOR RAINFALL AND A SWIFTER CURRENT.

>> Ann Early: AND THEN THE EXPEDITION WAS TRAPPED AT HOT SPRINGS.

THE WATER WAS TOO LOW TO FLOAT DOWNSTREAM, AND THEY HAD TO HUNKER DOWN IN VERY TEMPORARY SHELTERS IN THE SLEET AND WAIT FOR THE WATER TO RISE ENOUGH TO FLOAT THEMSELVES BACK DOWNSTREAM.

I THINK THAT THAT MAY HAVE KILLED DR. HUNTER'S ENTHUSIASM FOR FIELD RESEARCH.

>> Narrator: FINALLY AFTER A WEEK OF WAITING, THE RIVER ROSE.

THE EXPEDITION SHOVED OFF IN THE MORNING AND HEADED DOWNSTREAM.

AT 1:00, THEY ROARED OVER THE GREAT CHUTES.

>> From Dr. Hunter's diary: "JANUARY 10th.

WE HAVE ALREADY LEFT ALL DIFFICULT ROCKY PLACES.

HERE ENCAMPED WERE TEN INDIANS FROM THE RIVER ARKANSAS.

THESE HAD BEEN FITTED OUT BY A MR. LeFEVRE WHO ACCOMPANIED THEM.

THIS LeFEVRE INFORMED US THAT A PARTY OF THE GRAND OSAGES, WHO WITH 'WHITE HAIRS' THEIR CHIEF, HAD BEEN TO VISIT THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES, ON THEIR RETURN MET A NUMBER OF WHITE HUNTERS WHOM THEY ROBBED AND PLUNDERED.

I TOLD HIM THAT HE CERTAINLY WAS MISUNDERSTOOD, THAT NEITHER OF THESE TALES APPEARED PROBABLE."

>> Narrator: THE EXPEDITION CONTINUED DOWNSTREAM AT A QUICKENED PACE WITH ONLY OCCASIONAL STOPS TO EXAMINE UPCOMING RAPIDS AND TO COLLECT STONES FOR LATER EXAMINATION.

THE WEATHER WAS COLD, BARELY RISING ABOVE THE FREEZING MARK.

THE SCIENTISTS ENJOYED AN ECLIPSE OF THE MOON AND A DAY LATER SAILED INTO FORT MIRO WHERE THEY TURNED IN THE BARGE AND AGAIN TOOK POSSESSION OF THEIR CHINESE SHIP.

TO SPEED UP HIS RETURN TO "THE FOREST," DUNBAR BROKE OFF FROM THE EXPEDITION IN A CANOE, TAKING WITH HIM HIS SLAVE AND A SOLDIER.

HUNTER AND THE REST OF THE CREW TRAVELED ON TO NATCHEZ AND THEN TO NEW ORLEANS WHERE THEY TURNED OVER THEIR SHIP TO THE MILITARY COMMANDER.

>> From a newspaper article: "ORLEANS GAZETTE, FEBRUARY 14th, 1805.

THE DOCTOR GIVES A FLATTERING ACCOUNT OF THE COUNTRY GENERALLY THROUGH WHICH HE PASSED.

HE FOUND A GREAT VARIETY OF SOIL AND SITUATION-- SOMETIMES A LOW, FLAT COUNTRY WHOSE WHOLE SURFACE IS OVERFLOWN BY THE RIVER IN THE WET SEASON BUT GENERALLY FERTILE AND CAPABLE OF THE HIGHEST CULTIVATION.

HE ASCENDED THE RIVER ABOUT 500 MILES AND FOUND IT UNIFORMLY GENTLE AND BEAUTIFUL.

THE DOCTOR, WHO IS A CHEMIST AND MINERALOGIST, FOUND FEW OBJECTS WORTH NOTICE.

HE VISITED THE HOT SPRINGS OF OUACHITA AND FOUND THEM AMONGST THE GREATEST NATURAL CURIOSITIES IN THE COUNTRY.

THE DOCTOR IS OF THE OPINION THAT THEY POSSESS EXTRAORDINARY MEDICAL VIRTUES.

FROM THE INFORMATION WE HAVE OBTAINED FROM DR. HUNTER, WE ARE INDUCED TO BELIEVE THAT THERE ARE FEW PARTS OF LOUISIANA THAT HOLD OUT GREATER TEMPTATIONS TO EMIGRANTS."

>> Jeannie Whayne: DUNBAR AND HUNTER WERE BOTH VERY WELL KNOWN IN THE YEARS IMMEDIATELY FOLLOWING THE RETURN OF THEIR EXPEDITION.

THEIR REPORTS WERE WIDELY PUBLISHED SO THAT THEY WERE QUITE WELL KNOWN, AND THEY WERE PROVIDING THE AMERICAN PUBLIC WHICH WAS THIRSTY FOR KNOWLEDGE SOME OF THE FIRST INFORMATION ABOUT WHAT WAS IN THIS VAST NEW TERRITORY.

>> Letter from Dunbar: "LETTER TO THOMAS JEFFERSON, PRESIDENT, UNITED STATES.

FEBRUARY 2nd, 1805.

DEAR SIR, I HAVE THE SATISFACTION TO INFORM YOU THAT DR. HUNTER AND MYSELF ARE JUST RETURNED FROM THE 'WASHITA.'

THE OBJECTS WHICH HAVE PRESENTED THEMSELVES TO US ARE NOT OF VERY HIGH IMPORTANCE.

IT MUST, HOWEVER, BE ACKNOWLEDGED THAT THE HOT SPRINGS ARE INDEED A GREAT NATURAL CURIOSITY.

A JOURNAL OF OCCURRENCES OCCUPYING 200 PAGES WILL BE FORWARDED AS FAST AS IT CAN BE TRANSCRIBED.

WILLIAM DUNBAR, THE FOREST."

>> Letter from Jefferson: "MAY 25, 1805.

MR. DUNBAR, YOUR SEVERAL LETTERS WITH THE PORTION OF YOUR JOURNALS HAVE BEEN FULLY RECEIVED, AND I AM NOW PUTTING THE JOURNAL INTO THE HANDS OF A PERSON PROPERLY QUALIFIED TO EXTRACT THE RESULTS OF YOUR OBSERVATIONS AND THE VARIOUS INTERESTING INFORMATIONS CONTAINED AMONG THEM AND BRING THEM INTO SUCH A COMPASS AS MAY BE COMMUNICATED TO THE LEGISLATURE.

THOMAS JEFFERSON."

>> Narrator: JEFFERSON PRESENTED AN OFFICIAL REPORT OF THE EXPEDITION TO CONGRESS IN A 40-PAGE DOCUMENT THAT WAS REPRINTED IN SERIAL FORM.

BOUND WITH EARLY LETTERS FROM LEWIS AND CLARK, THE REPORT WAS PUBLISHED BY NEWSPAPERS IN NEW YORK AND LONDON.

( Clock chiming ) TODAY THE HUNTER-DUNBAR JOURNALS ARE PART OF THE PERMANENT COLLECTION AT THE AMERICAN PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY IN PHILADELPHIA.

>> Ann Early: FOR FUTURE STUDIES OF WHAT NATURAL SYSTEMS ARE AND WHAT THE ARTIFICIAL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE IS, THE DUNBAR AND HUNTER DOCUMENTS ARE STILL, I THINK, A POTENT SOURCE OF INFORMATION AND WE DON'T UNDERSTAND ALL THE IMPLICATIONS OF WHAT THESE MEN SAW YET.

>> Jeannie Whayne: THESE WERE VERY LITERATE, VERY KEEN OBSERVERS.

EVEN THOUGH THEY OFTEN DID NOT KNOW THEMSELVES THE SIGNIFICANCE OF EVERYTHING THEY WERE DESCRIBING, THEY DESCRIBED IT SO WE CAN UNDERSTAND IT NOW, NOW THAT WE'RE BRINGING WITH IT OUR 21st CENTURY PERSPECTIVES.

>> Narrator: THE GRAND EXPEDITION HUNTER AND DUNBAR HAD HOPED TO MAKE IN THE SPRING TO THE HEADWATERS OF THE ARKANSAS NEVER TOOK PLACE.

THERE WAS STILL FEAR OF THE OSAGE, AND CONGRESS FAILED TO APPROPRIATE THE MONEY FOR THE TRIP.

>> Trey Berry: HUNTER AND HIS SON WENT BACK TO PHILADELPHIA FULLY EXPECTING-- BOTH MEN, DUNBAR AND HUNTER-- FULLY EXPECTING THAT IN THAT SAME YEAR, 1805, THEY WOULD AGAIN EMBARK ON THE GRAND EXPEDITION UP THE ARKANSAS AND THE RED.

BUT IT WAS NOT TO BE.

>> Narrator: IN 1815, HUNTER MOVED HIS FAMILY FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW ORLEANS WHERE HE HAD TURNED OVER HIS CHINESE BOAT TEN YEARS EARLIER.

THE DOCTOR BECAME A WEALTHY BUSINESSMAN AND THE OWNER OF A NEW ORLEANS LIQUOR DISTILLERY.

BUT DESPITE HIS ACCLAIM, NOT A SINGLE PORTRAIT OF GEORGE HUNTER IS KNOWN TO EXIST.

SOON AFTER HIS TRIP UP THE OUACHITA, DUNBAR'S HEALTH BEGAN TO FAIL.

HE HELPED PLAN AN EXPEDITION ON THE RED RIVER BUT WAS TOO ILL TO GO ALONG.

HE RETIRED TO HIS HOME AT "THE FOREST" AND DIED IN 1810.

>> Trey Berry: THAT'S PROBABLY WHAT THIS HOUSE LOOKED LIKE.

IT PROBABLY HAD COLUMNS ALL THE WAY AROUND IT.

>> Narrator: HISTORY PROFESSOR TREY BERRY TAKES COLLEGE STUDENTS ON A SPRING PILGRIMAGE TO THE RUINS OF THE PLANTATION.

AS THEY WALK BETWEEN THE BRICK COLUMNS AND ANCIENT LIVE OAK TREES ONCE OWNED BY WILLIAM DUNBAR-- EXPLORER, SLAVE OWNER, AND FRIEND OF JEFFERSON-- THEY LEARN OF A MAN AND AN EXPEDITION LONG FORGOTTEN.

>> Trey Berry: WE DON'T KNOW WHEN IT REALLY BURNED.

WE REALLY DON'T.

THERE'S NO RECORD OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT.

THEY SEE WHAT'S LEFT OF WILLIAM DUNBAR'S HOME, "THE FOREST," AND THEY CAN IMAGINE THE GRANDIOSE PLACE IT WAS.

THEY SEE THE ROAD LEADING TO HIS HOME.

THEY CAN JUST IMAGINE HIM LEAVING THERE, BAGS PACKED, READY FOR THE EXPEDITION.

THEY CAN GO DOWN TO THE ST. CATHERINE'S LANDING AND JUST IMAGINE THE CHINESE BOAT LEAVING, GOING OFF DOWN THE RIVER ON THE EXPEDITION.

AND THEY CAN VISIT HIS GRAVE, AND THEY CAN STAND THERE AND READ THE EPITAPH ON HIS HEADSTONE.

AND THEY CAN SEE HIS OFFSPRING AND UNDERSTAND THAT THIS MAN WAS REAL.

>> Narrator: WHILE VISITING THE PLANTATION CEMETERY, DR. BERRY AND HIS STUDENTS WERE GREETED BY DUNBAR'S DIRECT DESCENDENTS, THE KEEPERS OF A RARE HEIRLOOM TWO CENTURIES OLD.

>> Trey Berry: THIS IS AN UNBELIEVABLE TREASURE OF AMERICAN HISTORY.

ABSOLUTELY.

>> Narrator: THE FAMILY STILL OWNS DUNBAR'S ORIGINAL HANDWRITTEN DIARY, THE PERSONAL ACCOUNT OF A VOYAGE INTO THE UNKNOWN TERRITORY OF THE SOUTHERN LOUISIANA PURCHASE.

>> Berry reads from journal: "EXPLORATION OF THE RED, OUACHITA, AND BLACK RIVERS BY SIR WILLIAM DUNBAR OF ADAMS COUNTY MISSISSIPPI UNDERTAKEN AT THE INSTRUCTION OF THOMAS JEFFERSON."

>> Student: WOW!

>> Student: OH, MY GOSH!

>> Trey Berry: I THINK THEY CAME BACK WITH A KIND OF A SENSE THAT "I KNOW THIS GUY NOW AND THAT THEY WERE IMPORTANT FIGURES, NOT JUST IN THE SOUTH BUT IN THE WHOLE EPIC OF AMERICAN HISTORY."

>> From Dunbar's diary: "FEBRUARY 13th, 1805.

OUR VOYAGE HAS FURNISHED US WITH EXPERIMENTAL KNOWLEDGE WHICH MAY BE USEFUL TO FUTURE EXPLORERS.

YOUR OBEDIENT SERVANT, WILLIAM DUNBAR."

>> THIS PROGRAM WAS SPONSORED IN PART BY A GRANT FROM THE ARKANSAS HUMANITIES COUNCIL AND THE DEPARTMENT OF ARKANSAS HERITAGE; BY OUACHITA BAPTIST UNIVERSITY-- A COMMUNITY OF SCHOLARSHIP, FAITH, AND HONOR; BY THE UNIVERSITY OF ARKANSAS, A STUDENT-CENTERED RESEARCH UNIVERSITY SERVING ARKANSAS AND THE WORLD;